Thursday, 21 March 2013

Step by step of 'The Uglies'

1. Moisturise
Always moisturise at least 20 minutes before applying make-up.

2. Foundation

Although stage lights dilute colour drastically i opted for a different approach with the uglies and used a natural pale foundation as my base. It covered everything and made the other brighter colours stand alone from the face giving the look a very crisp clean effect.

3. Loose powder

Loose powder is used to keep the make-up firmly on the face. Men sweat a lot. Bright hot lights and running around in a dress= more sweat. More is more with this product.

4. Blue eyeshadow

I mainly used face paints on the boys as they were easier to build and work with. I painted a line above the lid of the eye and wing it out at the edge. Pull the product through the blow line and about 1 cm above it. Then connect the line to the winged edge and fill in the space layering the product to get a bolder sharper colour. Don't be tempted to go higher as there are more steps to the eyes and wigs can come down low on to a forehead.

5. White highlight lines
From the newly created brow line uses white face paint to shape a thin line from brow down to corner of the eye. Then shape another from under the eye to connect at the pointed wing. Don't go to close under the eye as it will cause irritation and smudge.

It might be worth mentioning at this point that I took influence of the Japanese hyme gura to create a truly large doll-like eye that is visible to an audience sitting far away.

6. Black brow and eyeliner

Follow the white lines above and below and connect. Create large lashes either side.

7. Red cheeks

Simply ask your gent to smile like the joker and using red face paint circle the apples of their cheeks, (yes this technique adds age but they are victims of comedy, therefore it's allowed.)

8. Heart shaped pucker up lips

Use concealer to blank out the outer edges of the lips. Using a lip liner shape the lips into a heart. Go right above the lip line and below onto the chin. Then fill in with the brightest reddest most horrible lip stick you can get your hands on.

9. Beauty Spot!

Using either a black eye pencil or face paint draw on your beauty spot in your chosen place. I made mine heart shaped because I'm girly but remember make it large, more like a huge hairy wort because the audience at the back want to see it too.

10. Keep that make-up on
From a distance lightly spray the face with hair spray... I mean LIGHTLY. This will ensure less smudges through costume changes.

11. Finishing touches i.e. eyelashes and wigs

Apply eyelashes as instruction from last blog and place wig on his head being careful not to smudge the make-up. Don't forget to took in any loose hairs!

And Show Time!

Friday, 8 March 2013

Fairy Dust

Pantomime! On one hand you have the flamboyant hilarity of the Dames and on the other, the glamour of our one and only fairy godmother. Can I firstly say the Fairy godmother was just like her character, kind, glam and super glittery... by the time I was done with her! As a woman her make-up skills were, lets just say, better then the boys. This took me back to my basics… hair.

I wanted to create a classic look with a cute and quirky twist. To get that pantomime style glamour I immediately went for the biggest beehive I could get in the time I had. However it must be noted, that with flying around the stage and pulling a hood off her head throughout the play, this became too inconvenient for the actress and adjustments had to be made. The beehive became smaller and more suitable for the stage antics.

It is important to mention that when thespians express concern with hair and make-up they must be listened to. After all they are your clients and they have to be comfortable in the look you’ve given them or they’re not going to be able to give their best performance. You don’t want that on your head when the director’s pointing fingers at the intermission.

At the back of the beehive I wanted to do something different to the conventional bun or vertical roll. I opted for a cute hair bow.  As the Godmothers young apprentice sported a ballet style bun I thought a bow would be the perfect contrast. I felt if I used a vertical roll it would age the Godmother, (and our Godmother was certainly not giving up that youthful zest.)

The bow kept the look fresh and young, giving the audience a nice surprise when she span round casting her good thoughts. I simply finished of by applying hairspray, tiara, eyelashes (quickly) and lots and lots of glitter!! So there you have it, sparkle my fairy godmothers, sparkle.

Thursday, 7 March 2013

The problem with 'Dames' is...

From stockings to lashes, wigs to high brow lines, 'the uglies' as they were known were by far the most challenging and entertaining to style. 'Dame' what i feel is the British answer to the 'Lady Boys' of Bangkok. However 'Dames' are not to be mistaken for drag acts, they are not meant to look like women. They serve a comedic purpose and when is all said and done are quite simply, men in frocks and wigs and make-up are used to enhance this illusion. However nobody is more grateful to a make-up artist then a man.

When i was first told i would be doing hair and make-up for the production 'Cinderella' the thought that I would be creating elaborate looks for 'Dames' never even crossed my mind... Thank goodness for dress rehearsals. I quickly found there were a few contra-indications that i needed to address.

As a rule boys do not tend to moisturise. Some will do everything to get out of it. Although a notice was sent saying to moisturise the face at least 20 minutes before arriving I made it my duty as the men would arrive I'd rub some moisturiser into their face before flying down the hall to tend to the girls. This allowed time for the moisturiser to set into the skin, not only aiding a smooth surface to apply the make-up but also building a barrier to protect the skin minimising break outs and irritations for those with sensitive or skin conditions.

Dames make-up is thick and heavy and can often be difficult to remove. (Especially for the older actor with slightly loose skin.) I researched other Dames in current theatre and adapted eye make-up so the 'ugly sister' at night could transform effortlessly into the business manager once the show was done. Because the eye area has the thinnest most sensitive skin i never took the make-up on to the lid or directly below the eye. This avoided product build up and irritation to the eyes making the look comfortable (as possible) to work in.

The tantrums that was caused by applying false eyelash strips were phenomenal. As I applied eyelashes in the girls changing rooms, roughly taking 5 seconds per lash. I couldn't help but think about the divatastic men that awaited me down the hall. When using new lashes i would apply them as normal, (and that was bad enough) however night after night the long feathery lashes had to sometimes be reused and as they aged they got droopy and uncomfortable to wear so i had to adapted the technique in which i applied them. To prepare the lashes i would hairspray them lightly (to much would make them worse) to harden up the feathers. I would place them just above the lid of the eye for less irritation and comfort.